Due Respect
There are two stories I like to tell when people ask me about my philosophy of bartending. They both took place early on in my career and they have shaped everything I have been about since.
When I was brand new to the profession, I was filling in one night on a busy Friday night at Wildwood Restaurant and found myself knee deep in the weeds of the service well, doing all I could to maintain my sanity. An order came in for a 1977 Dow’s Vintage Port, which I pulled from the shelf and poured into the glass, finishing the bottle (think about it), which I deposited in to the recycle bin and then moved on with my work. Now, those of you who have ever done what I had just done, probably know the outcome of this story. Vintage port, especially an old one like that, develop a whole mess of sediment as they age and the last pour of the bottle usually contains all of it. The manager of the restaurant soon came back to the bar with the almost empty glass that looked a little like someone had rid themselves of their last dip of Copenhagen in the bottom of it. The manager scolded me pretty severely and then let me get back to work. At the end of my shift, he discussed the matter and explained a few things about the world of vintage ports and pointed me in the direction I might take to learn a little more. I took him up on that offer and then proceeded to go a few steps further. My lesson for the night: Always know what you are pouring.
The second story also took place at Wildwood. I was again working the service bar and a young guy ordered a rum and coke. I made the drink, in the process finishing the bottle of Bacardi just short of a full pour. I was busy so I figured he wouldn’t notice if I just added a little extra coke and sent him on his way. About five minutes later, I notice him talking to the other, more experienced, bartender complaining about the weakness of his drink. The other bartender walks over to my well and pulls the empty (mistake number 2) bottle from my well to add some more to the man’s drink. I was busted right there as I obviously gave the guy a short pour. Lesson number two: Never take shortcuts!
Why am I telling you this? Well the manager that I spoke of in story number one turned out to be something of a mentor over those years at Wildwood. His professionalism and class were guiding principles for me as I found my way behind the bar. Over the years we became good friends and eventually peers and I always looked to him for an example of “the right way to do things.” His name is Randy Goodman and after all this time, he and his wife Nancy have finally opened their own place. It’s called Bar Avignon and it’s located over on SE Division. I was invited to the opening party and it looks as though they have captured exactly what they are all about. If you appreciate fine Alsatian wines, good food and a welcoming neighborhood vibe, I’d go check the place out. I’m sure he has no recollection of that fateful night back in 1995, but the impact on my career will never be forgotten.
September 9th, 2008 at 7:10 am
Just went to Bar Avignon for the first time last night with friend (portland native) moving to NYC in one week. We were both impressed with the savory small plates - and great glass pours. Randy came outside (we were soaking up an indian summer eve) multiple times to check on us - banter and tell stories. We ended up tasting through salads, apps (meatballs are fabulous) to an amazing almond cake dessert paired with a sparkling. We were the only ones left nearing the eleven o’clock hour and they still encouraged us to get a dessert. It’s a classy & charming spot - a good place to become a regular.